Story of Water in Novalja
Traveling defines and enriches us. It brings us closer together and unites us, often connecting us to distant places in ways we may never have anticipated.
A part of the Mediterranean
The Adriatic coast is overwhelmed with historical traces, bearing evidence of its long and diverse past. This basin is like one inlet of the Mediterranean Sea that carries all the knowledge from ancient times.
How different are Mediterraneans from each other? What are their similarities? Do they have a common cultural heritage? As I ponder these questions, I realise that they enjoy similar cookies, fish, and vegetables. Their shared Mediterranean diet, recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage, highlights this cultural connection.
Mediterranean food
Ancient peoples who lived along the Adriatic coast thousands of years before Christ coexisted with Etruscans and Phoenicians. They likely traded with them when these civilisations visited the Adriatic. When the Romans conquered the ancient Liburni, they adopted some of their shipbuilding skills. Over time, the local inhabitants assimilated.
Todays people of the Adriatic area are skilled maritime travellers and fishermen, and they produce excellent olive oil. We know for certain that ancient Liburni also produced olive oil, and Roman records even indicate that the oil produced by Liburni was a standard of quality. Evidence of this ancient olive oil tradition endures in the millennial olive trees still thriving in the olive gardens of Lun, on the northern part of the island. The Eastern Adriatic coast still has very skilled olive oil producers, which is proven by the numerous gold medals that they win on a yearly basis.
The Romans knew how to adopt the skills of the natives. In addition to olive oil production, we find in the seawaters of Caska Bay remains of the ancient Roman civilisation, as well as traces of Liburnian shipbuilding technology that utilised sowing.
Ancient Roman architecture and Talijanova buža
It’s an amazing moment when you enter the ancient aqueduct in Novalja. At that point, you can imagine the entire network of the water supply system and marvel at how ingenious Romans brought water from distant sources to the settlement.
Roman aqueduct, Talijanova buža in Novalja
The water network stretched from Kolan to Caska over approximately 8 kilometres. The system likely also extended from Caska to Stara Novalja, allowing water from the Škopalj spring to flow through solid rock, reaching the port of Navalia which was on the other side of the hill.
Water was very important for Navalia. Roman factories for dyeing fabrics (Fullonica) required a lot of water to operate and ships would stop at the port to restock on fresh water.
Evidence of the Fullonica of Novalja was found in numerous sea snails (Murex brandaris) in the soil by people that were digging foundations for their modern homes.
In the bay of Caska there were found remains of a maritime villa and many artefacts, and archeological objects such as a measuring table used for trading, food containers and roman parquet. These are further evidence of roman architecture and a rich life in the bay.
It is well known that the ancient Romans enjoyed heated floors and saunas where they liked to socialise. Roman life was unimaginable without an abundance of water.
The Talianova buža resides safely in the heart of modern Novalja, it’s a remarkable piece of ancient engineering on the island of Pag. This aqueduct is carved directly into the natural rock of the Figurica hill and stretches 1042 meters from one side to the other. Discovered by chance, it now stands as a testimony of the great importance of this part of the island of Pag in ancient times.
The Bay of Caska
The Caska bay has a unique history. Here we find necropolises of the ancient Liburni, Roman ruins, early Christian remains, and even a special connection with ancient Egypt.
The Goddess Isis
In total, four altars have been found in the bay of Caska. One of those was discovered recently and it’s dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis. It tells the story of Calpurnia, a resident of the bay of Caska who sought mercy for her family by praying to the goddess Isis. Calpurnia lived in the magnificent maritime villa, complete with all the amenities, where trade and gastronomy flourished. There was an abundance of water that came from Kolan through the waterworks and continued towards Stara Novalja and Novalja.
Altar to the Goddess Isis
With ancient Egypt in our mind, we can begin to understand why altars were set up here with an abundance of water, potentially alluding to the holy waters of the Nile. With this cult, we directly connect the ancient worlds and various European and non-European cultures and religions. Admired by the altars next to the water, we inevitably think about the later altars in the basilicas and the holy water in the baptisteries. Novalja had several basilicas, and the remains of the largest one can still be seen in the centre of Novalja.
Solomon’s knot on Early Cristian mosaics of the Basilica in Novalja
From the roman aqueduct to holly water
A small church was built on the remains of the largest basilica in Novalja, where remnants of the early Christian basilica!s mosaic can still be seen in the floor. The altar painting of Our Lady holds special significance, as it is believed she shed tears there in the 16th century. A legend is also connected to this church, which connects the locals in one way with the creation of the city of Pag and the destruction of Kisa, Caska, and back again to an interesting link that leads us to the water. Even the historian Marko Lauro Ruić (1736-1808) seeks the origin of the name of the city of Pag in the Greek word pegge – water, and not in the Latin word pagus, which would mean village. It is interesting that even today in Pag there is a locality called Vodice, and who walked there and why, we learn from the legend about the destruction of Caska. According to the legend, the good sister Bona escaped the destruction of Caska by heading along the old road towards what is now the town of Pag. In the area known as Vodice, she encountered an angel who reassured her, revealing that she was saved and could begin a new life there. Vodice still exists today, and during the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, pilgrims walk this same route from Mala Crikva to the old town of Pag at night.
Altar of Mala crkva in Novalja
The water from the baptistery connects us with God, and the mother of Christ showers us with love. Just as Calpurnia prayed to Isis, who in depictions often carries her son Horus on her chest, so today we pray to Mater Dei, who carries the baby Jesus on her chest. Both figures glorify motherly love and strength, and due to their connection to the earth, embodying the resilience and fertility of rich, black soil, it is no wonder that both are often depicted in black (Isis and Black Madonna).
Reliquaries of Novalja
The Reliquaries of Novalja
Next to the largest early Christian basilica, Novalja reliquaries were found. Motifs from the New and Old Testament are presented on the decorative brass paneling of the wooden chest for reliquaries. One of the motifs from the Old Testament shows Moses striking the rock with a stick and water coming out. This incredible find can be seen today in the Archaeological Museum in Zadar.
Wen we tell the story of water in Novalja, we trace a remarkable historical line. From the worship of Isis, and Roman remains, including the aqueduct, we follow the story to the reliquaries, and finally to present-day sacred objects containing holy water in their baptistries.
Are these admixtures of European and non-European heritage evident in the prism of religion, religious practices and beliefs?
Novalja undoubtedly weaves together a rich tapestry of distant history, beliefs, ancient construction techniques, and shipbuilding. Through its legends, it continually speaks of water and the fascinating events that have shaped this region.
Old travel routes
Old travel routes even bring mention of the Amber Road. Amber was transported by land from the Baltic to somewhere in the Kvarner Gulf, then by ship to the south. As skilled sailors and merchants, the Liburni traded in a wide array of goods, including probably amber, which they likely sold to the Japodi residing on the Velebit mountain.
This is likely why the Otočac Museum houses numerous artefacts from Japodi culture, many of which are made of amber. The trade and maritime connections between these two peoples bridged two distinct cultures: one by the sea and the other in the mountains, one along the Adriatic and the other on Velebit mountain. Today, the descendants of these two peoples inhabit the same administrative region, uniting the sea and mountain cultures once again.
Historical structures and artefacts in situ, in museums, galleries, libraries and archives helped us to tell a unique story about water, presenting Novalja through new perspectives.
Walking tour “Story of Water”
The walk begins in front of the Tourist Board at the monument of the woman from Novalja, who on her head carries laundry to wash. This monument serves as a reminder that, for a long time, this island struggled with a lack of drinking water. Water had to be conserved for both people and livestock. We walk through the city centre, visiting monuments of architectural, archaeological, and cultural significance. We end our walk at the Wind Rose beside the water monument, specifically at the fountain built in 1982, marking the arrival of water to the island via an underwater pipeline from the mainland. This walk is a Story of Water, which dives deep into the history of Novalja, revealing its impressing ancient grandeur, which has faded sometime during Late Antiquity. Moving through the city and uncovering various symbols that are hidden in the interpretation box, we also unravel the story of the Novalja reliquaries, which once again connect us to that magnificent water.
The recent discovery of the sacrificial altar in Caska bay connects us with the ancient Egyptian culture and its cults. In telling the story of water from history to the present day, Novalja provides a unique link between European and non-European cultural heritage.
Kate Novaljka, a monument to the women who carried laundry to wash to the bay
Text and photos: Božidarka Šćerbe Haupt
References:
- Nikola Crnković: Novaljska župna kronika o jedinstvenom vodoopskrbnom objektu na našem tlu
- Stanko Josip Škunca: Enigma biskupije Cisse/Cesse
- Boris Ilakovac: Roman Aqueducts on the Island of Pag
- Inga Vilgorac Brčić, Nikola Cesarik, Maja Grisonic i David Štrmelj: Kalpurnija i egipatski bogovi u Caski na otoku Pagu
Interpretative elements of the walk
